Svaneti’s calendar was never written for visitors — which is exactly its value. Lamproba’s birch torches in February, Svanetoba’s horse races and polyphony in late July, Gemo Fest in the winter square..
Lamproba falls in mid-February, its date following the lunar calendar. At night the men carry birch-bark torches through the snow to the family graves and bonfires burn beside the towers. It ties St George’s feast to something visibly older — ancestor remembrance in fire, in the season when Svaneti belongs only to itself.
Svanetoba takes the last weekend of July in Mestia: polyphonic song and circle dances, horse racing, wrestling and archery, food rows where every commune defends its kubdari, crafts and fireworks over the towers. Gemo Fest runs in winter on Seti Square, lately timed with the Freeride World Tour Georgia Pro — ski culture and supra culture shaking hands in one square.